This slaw is the Goldilocks of coleslaws. It’s slightly sweet, but not too sweet. Slightly creamy, but not too creamy. Juicy, but certainly not too wet. It has a bite, but not too sharp. The only category where it doesn’t compromise is texture: It’s very crunchy. After all, a crispy, crunchy slaw is non-negotiable.
I have fiddled for years to find the right balance of, well, see the qualities above. This slaw is pretty darn close — thanks, I believe, to a key ingredient: grated onion with its juices. It manages to bind this simple slaw together and provide the elusive je ne sais quoi that compels you to take another (and another) bite.